Instead of writing three more posts, I decided to put the remaining projects I made from Weekend Sewing by Heather Ross all together.  The reasons are simple:  I didn't make many modifications and I am ready to talk about something else.  So here you go.

The Trapeze Dress/Blouse

When I traced the pattern for this, I cut 10" off of the bottom and just followed the same hem line.  Easy enough.  I sewed it up in a cotton swiss dot-like fabric that I got on sale.  I bought 2 yards and that was more than I needed.  The sizing on this was just as true as on the summer blouse - I made a medium and it fit without any modifications.  I sewed it following the directions exactly, except I skipped the pocket bit as mine is a shirt instead of a dress.  After I sewed the straps between the facings, I tried on the blouse and had Fatty pin the straps in back so they would cover my bra straps.  That part is definitely a two person job - get a friend to help you.  After the straps were sewn, I tried it on and decided on my hem length.  I cut another 2" off the bottom (making my cut pieces 12" shorter than the dress pattern) and gave the blouse a generous 1" hem.  Ta da!  I love it and am looking forward to wearing it lots.

Pajama Pants/Shorts for Everyone

I made the Child's L/XL for Jane and Kate.  I had 3/4 yard of each print (60" wide) and that was more than enough.  I traced the pattern so the inseam would be 5" before hemming.  They are a quick project and go together fast.  Instead, of leaving the casing opening in the front and hand sewing it shut, I left the back open, inserted the elastic and then stitched it shut with the machine.  I added ric rack to the bottom for cuteness - the girls love it.  The pattern states it will fit up to a 28" waist.  I think that is pushing it.  The finished waist measures 28", so there is no ease in that number.  While they fit Kate just fine (she wears a girls' size 8), Jane (who wears a girls' size 10) can just get them over her hips.  The rise is perfectly fine, though, so when I make them again, I will just add 1/4" or so to the side edges so there is a little more ease.

All-Weekend Sundress

I am really pleased with how this project came out.  I made it in about 3 hours with my regular sewing machine - no serger necessary even if you are using a knit.  The knit I bought was 60" wide and is a cotton/rayon blend.  I bought 2.5 yards and it shrunk down a bit so I couldn't cut the ruffle (the bottom part of the skirt) 20" long.  My pieces were 16" instead and I think it's fine.  I loved sewing with the elastic thread - Heather's instructions are perfect and it was super easy.  I also loved that with a knit, there is no hemming.  Bonus!  I didn't make any modifications to the pattern pieces and sewed it all according to the written directions.  I made a size M, although my hip measurement falls in the L range.  It fits perfectly - the elastic thread gives it a lot of ease.  I still need to make the spaghetti straps....

All right, that's it.  I whipped up a skirt for Kate today and I have a finished sweater to show off.  Be back soon.

The yard sale wrap skirt is the cover project for Weekend Sewing by Heather Ross.  This is a great beginner to advanced beginner project - easy and pretty fast, too.

I started with 3 yards of an Amy Butler print.  Heather shows you cutting the skirt out with the fabric folded.  Unfortunately, the L/XL size would not fit on the 42" wide fabric once it was folded in half (21"), but I imagine the S/M might.  Regardless, I was able to flip the pattern piece around because I had a somewhat non-directional print to get 2 pieces out of the width.  If my fabric had an obvious right side up, then it would have taken me tons of fabric - maybe 7 yards or something crazy like that.  Keep that in mind.  After I cut the six panels that the pattern calls for, it was apparent to me that I was going to need a seventh.  I knew that Amisha had added another panel to hers, so I wasn't that surprised that I need an extra one too.  She made a S/M and I made a L/XL.  Suffice it to say, you should plan for that extra panel by buying extra fabric.  I didn't have enough left on my 3 yard piece, so I cut into a 1 yard cut of the same print for the seventh panel and the waistband pieces.  I used 4 yards total, but you might be able to get away with less if you plan better than I did.

 

The sewing was fast.  The panels are joined using French seams.  Don't let that deter you!  I had never sewn French seams before and Heather's directions were very easy to follow.  Plus, they look so nice!  After the panels were sewn together and the sides hemmed, I added the waistband.  I found the left waistband piece to be wider than the center waistband piece.  I solved that easily enough - I just cut it so they fit together.  The waistband was sewn and top stitched in about a half an hour.  When it came time to hem, I didn't feel like messing with a hand sewn rolled hem.  Instead, I just pressed 1/4" to the wrong side, folded it back and pressed again.  Easy enough.

The skirt sits up pretty high on my waist.  I think if I were to make it again, I'd try to adjust it to sit lower - either add another panel, or maybe take some length off the top.  Of course, if I did that, I would have to add length to the waistband so it would wrap around and tie properly.  I also think I would look at the skirt length a bit more.  I wore the skirt out the other day and still found it to be super comfortable.  Heather wrote a great article about hemlines here.  Read it - you won't be sorry.  I now know why the jean skirt I bought last fall never makes me feel good.  It's too short.

All right - next up I am going to talk about those p.j. shorts, the all-weekend dress and the trapeze dress/blouse.  All in one post because I am so ready to move on.  Later, people.

The Everyday Tote was the second project I made from Weekend Sewing by Heather Ross.  As far as bags go, this one is pretty straight forward.  I had this great Lotta Jansdotter fabric that Leslie sent me that would be perfect for this bag and was ready to start cutting until I realized I was going to need way more than 1/2 yard (42" wide) to get this one done.  When I talked to her, Heather mentioned that the pattern should read that you will need 1 yard of each the outside and lining fabrics.  So now you know.

Back to me and my dilemma....remember, I rarely have any cut fabric bigger than 1 yard?  The Denyse Schmidt gold and green polka dot was in my stash - I had 1/2 yard (54" wide) which was just enough after washing to lay the pattern piece on it side by side, instead of on the fold.  I did add 1/2" to my traced pattern to make up for the seam allowance I had to put in the bottom.  Follow?  Same goes for the lining.  Because the Heather Ross print I chose is directional, cutting it on the fold would have given me upside down flowers on one side of my bag.  That wasn't going to cut it, so I cut 2 single pieces instead.

The straps and the strap linings are cut on the bias.  The pattern has you cutting them from the same two fabrics you are using for the outside of the bag and the lining.  Well, I had no large polka dots left, so I went back to the stack and pulled out a coordinating Denyse Schmidt print from the County Fair line.  And of course, I didn't have enough of the lining to line the handles so I chose another Heather Ross fabric from the stash that coordinates perfectly - the green horse print (from the West Hill line - can't find a good link).  I also cut the pocket out of the horse print.   I measured the pattern piece and then cut a rectangle twice as high so I could fold it to double it and make it a bit heftier.

 

I sewed the bag exactly as Heather describes except I had to add the bottom seam.  No big deal.  All went well until the handles.  I could not wrap my brain around the written directions in conjunction with the illustrations and the photo.  I really think this is not Heather - it's me.  I couldn't get quilt binding out of my head, so that is basically what I did.  It doesn't look anything like the photo so I know it's wrong.  I considered ripping it out, but then realized that it looks fine and my time wasn't worth it.  When I make the next one - yes, there will be more - I'll try something different.

I think it is super cute.  And as I told Heather, I love that I can fold it flat to stick in my purse or maybe even a suitcase.  The shape is fantastic, too.  I might even shrink the pattern down a bit to make a smaller, kid-sized version.  The thought of my girls carrying their own stuff to the pool just makes me smile.

Questions?  I'll answer them in the comments again.  Monday, it's the yard sale wrap skirt.  Until then, have a great weekend.

OK - it's settled.  I am going to dish more about the projects I made from Weekend Sewing.  I figure a good place to start is the beginning.  And the beginning for me was the Summer Blouse.

As I mentioned to Heather, this was the project that got me itching to sew.  I looked around the sewing room for some suitable fabric and really didn't have much to choose from.  I tend to buy small amounts of quilting fabrics - a yard or less generally.  The ones I did have more yardage of were busy, colorful prints that I didn't think I would wear as a shirt.  Then, peeking out of a pile of wool, I saw a corner of this pink and white check shirting that I had bought at Mood in New York over two years ago.  I pulled it out and was happy to see I had 2.5 yards.  The choice was made.  For the facing, I used the only Liberty lawn I had in my stash.  I had cut into it for my string x quilt and had a little less than a half a yard, but it too was enough.

I chose to sew a size Medium as I know from knitting sweaters that my bust measurement is 38".  I was a bit hesitant, but cut into the good stuff anyhow.  I really hate making muslins.  I know you are supposed to, but I just don't bother.  No worries, though.  This fits great in the bust.  Perfect, actually.  I am a C cup and there was no bust adjustment needed.  Bonus.

Sewing the facing for the placket is pretty easy.  Heather's directions are really clear and I found it simple enough.  The little band on the inside of the neck is bias strips and pretty easy to do, also.  I just made sure with both of these steps to take my time and really read the directions all the way through.  It worked.  The only thing I did differently here was that my little button loop is just folded in on itself, not a turned tube like Heather describes.  Easier for me without the proper tube-turning tool.

Setting the sleeves was easy.  Heather explains it well and I had done that before so I was pretty confident that it would work out.  Once I got the sleeves in, I tried the blouse on and found that it was a bit billowy for me.  I am narrowest in the ribcage with curves (read:  big on top and on bottom) and the bell shape didn't flatter me much.  I set my machine on the basting stitch and took in the sides.  I sewed straight down from the dart to the bottom - the seam ended up being about an inch at bottom end.  I tried it on and it was good so I re-did it with a normal stitch length and then cut the seams accordingly.

The length was a bit on the short side for me.  I am long in the torso and I normally add length, but kind of spaced on that part.  So, necessity being the mother of invention and all, I cut some bias strips out of the facing fabric and sewed them to the bottom of the blouse to make up some of that length.  It worked well, but next time I would just add length to the actual pattern pieces.

After having the blouse on and off a bunch of times while fitting it, the slip stitch I did to close up the deep v of the placket started coming loose.  I knew this was going to drive me crazy so I took the blouse back to the machine and used a smallish zig zag stitch and sewed right over the seam line.  It looks good and hasn't budged a bit.  I then sewed on the small, green vintage button.  I don't ever button the blouse though - next time I would probably skip the button loop and button.

Questions?  Fire away.  I will answer any questions in the comments so everyone can benefit.  Back tomorrow with the everyday tote.

I have been sewing up a storm and it's all Heather Ross's fault.  Weekend Sewing is a fantastic book.  Not only are there many clothing patterns included, there are lots of small, quick projects, too.  I am completely impressed by Heather's attention to detail in her directions and illustrations.  Additionally, the clothes fit the sizes they say they should.  That makes sewing clothes for myself so much more fun.  I was lucky to have the chance to share my finished projects with Heather and asked her some questions about these designs.

 

. . . . .

Erin:  Hi,Heather!  I am so excited that you arehere today.  Your new book, WeekendSewing, is fantastic!   When I saw theproject photos on Melanie Falick’s blog a few months ago, I couldn’t wait toget my hands on it.  Now that it’s beenout for a few weeks, I can’t get my fill of sewing from it.  Immediately, I knew that I wanted to make thesummer blouse.  It looks like a greatbetween-season wardrobe staple or something you would throw on after an entireday at the beach.  What was going throughyour mind when you designed this shirt?

Heather:  I started with a very basic bodice patternwith soft darts and a nice high flattering neckline, which is where you shouldalways start when designing a dress or blouse. I wanted to introduce sewers to an inset sleeve in a way that madesense, and I wanted to make it a slightly shaped. I love the way that vintagetunics from the sixties and seventies are more fitted around the shoulders andchest and upper arm but then have a full, relaxed fit around the waist.Remember the way that Lily Pulitzer dresses and tunics fit? With a high, prettyneckline and and shaping through the chest? Marimekko was the same way, theyboth knew how to get the best shape from crisp woven cottons. It’s a shape thatis so much more flattering than a blouse that is baggy everywhere, but just ascomfortable.

With some addedlength and no sleeves, this pattern will actually make a lovely littlesleeveless shift! I added some photos below of one of my versions of thisproject. I made a little dress out of some of the fabrics from my Mendocinoline, with an appliqued contrasting panel. This is just the summer blouse, butwith armhole facings instead of sleeves and extended to fit me through thehips. This is what I mean about how great a simple bodice is: you can make itinto anything!

Erin:  Thenext project I made were the Pajama Pants for Everyone.  Well, actually, I adjusted the pattern tomake pajama shorts for Jane and Kate.  Ithink having this pattern on hand is going to come in handy.  I can see myself sitting down and making themassembly line style as gifts for my nephews.  Or a whole winter’s worth for the girls.   Are your clothing designs influenced byitems you already own or ones you would like to have or something elseentirely?

Heather:  I wear a lot of pajamas. In fact, I leftthe house wearing them this evening. Having a dog is such a great fashionaccessory. It really ties the whole haven’t left the house in days looktogether so nicely. I like pajama pants that aren’t all floofy in the front, soI designed these to lie flat. Its as close to wearing real pants as you can getwithout... wearing real pants. How cute that you cut them into shorts! I wouldhighly recommend cutting them into shorts with the pattern pieces on the bias,you would get the cutest little fluttery pj shorts ever, with a lots of drapeycurves around the leg and a nice flat front. An added bonus is the way thatbias cut shorts and pants stretch, even when sewn in woven fabrics. Maybe in anice linen or lawn?

 

Erin: One thing I love about your book is that there are so many clothespatterns in it.  I haven’t had muchsuccess sewing garments for myself in the past. No longer!  I think you have me ona selfish sewing roll!  Did you startwriting the book with clothing in mind, or did the projects fall into place asyou went along?

Heather:  I knew from the very beginning that Iwanted Weekend Sewing to be the book that propelled sewers from the “straightlines” stage of tote bags and pillow covers to actual garments. I had a visionof someone completing a dress or blouse and then saying “So THATS how you doit, I thought it was so much more complicated!” I focussed on pieces that didnot require complicated steps or closures and hoped for the best. I also wantedthe projects to be grown up, wearable styles that were meant a real, albeitcasual, lifestyle: Things you would actually make more than once, things youwould wear.

Erin:  Ireally liked the wide straps and square neckline of the trapeze sundress, but Ididn’t think I would wear it as a dress. So I cut 12” off of the bottom and made a blouse.  And I adore it!  It’s sure to be a summer staple for me.   I like that this, and other patterns, can bechanged or adjusted to make them entirely different.  Was that intentional on your part or just ahappy accident?

Heather:  Completely onpurpose! I love this dress too. I wanted to design a sun dress that felt rightin the city, where summer is oh so sweaty and miserable. I needed it to coveras little as possible while hiding a bra strap. I think the possibilities forthis style are endless. You could make it ankle length and add a really widebelt (If thats your plan, move the pockets down at least six inches) or addtiers of ruffles from the chest down. I also had a second motive: I wanted toshow everybody how easy adding pockets can be!

I should point outthat for those of us who are more curvy, moving those pleats into the center ofthe blouse will slim down the silhouette and create a less dramatic “trapezeshape”.

You look so cute init!

Erin: Thank you!

There are so many patterns for different bags out there, but I reallylike the shape and size of the everyday tote.   I love that it can fold up nice and flat, but still has good style.  Even though I sewed my handles wrong (oops!), the fact that they are folded and then openflat makes them incredibly comfortable.  Wheredid you come up with that idea?

 

Heather:  I should say here that I believe that thereis a typo in this pattern: I think it should call for 1 yard of each fabric,not 1/2 yard. My apologies.

This bag is mypersonal Farmers Market bag. I wanted one that would hold everything from fresheggs to big bags of apples and berries while still allowing for a huge bouquetof flowers to ride on top. And yes, I love how it stuffs into nothingness too,and I can toss it n the washer. I really love how yours looks with thinnerstraps. I like wide comfy straps because I always put too much weight in mybags, but its nice to see that it works both ways. I love what you did with thepocket, using just a little bit of the horses over the floral lining. Thepockets are so key. I am forever losing my phone and my keys inside every bag,so can’t ever skip this step.

Erin:  The pocket is key for me, too!  I also purposely chose the horse fabric because I knew I would be able to spot that dark green easily against the white lining.  So far, it's working great.

Imade the yard sale wrap skirt in an afternoon. I remember having a skirt similar to this when I was a child.  It was one of the most comfortable things Iowned.  My new one is no different.  I think you have a knack for designingpractical yet stylish clothing.

Heather:  This skirt is basedon a wonderful old wrap skirt that wandered around in my family for abouttwenty years. The wrap skirt, made from printed indian cotton, was such anubiquitous style in the 70’s, remember? I have extremely fond memories ofsomeone, maybe an aunt, holding hers up poolside around my cousin as shechanged into her swimsuit, like a little changing room. I updated the hemlinebecause I can’t stand that “thick calf” length, but otherwise its pretty trueto form. This is, without a doubt, the most wearable style in the book. Itsalso the most versatile, because you can make it as big or as full as you wantby adding more panels. I worked for a long time on the shape of the panels, Iwanted them to create just the right amount of drape so that it would be flatagainst the tummy and hips and then melt into a big swoopy hem. It’s tough todo this without making something that looks like a poodle skirt, but I am happyto say that i think I nailed it here. I would also suggest adding a piece ofinterfacing to the center front waistband, the result will be a nipped-in waistand flat tummy. I’m getting reports that people are having to add an additionalpanel to this style in order for it to fully cover their backsides. Sorry,ladies!

Erin:  I was happy I had some extra fabric on hand because I did add an extra panel to my skirt, too.  People might want to remember that if they are purchasing fabric for this skirt.

After the success with the wrap skirt, Iwent ahead and made the all weekend sundress. I didn’t have high hopes for it – I just wasn’t sure how if it wouldflatter me or not.  Guess what?  I like it. I still need to add the spaghetti straps, but otherwise it’s ready towear.  I can see myself throwing thisover a swim suit as a glamorous cover-up. I had forgotten how much fun elastic thread is, too.  So cool! A good number of projects in Weekend Sewing use elastic thread.  Why do you like it so much?

Heather:  I did use it a lot, didn’t I!

The kimono dress and all weekend sundress are great examplesof why I did this. By using stretchy rows of elastic thread to join the bodiceand skirt on both of these styles, I brought in the waist with lovely evengathers so that it would fit the wearer perfectly without requiring a zipper orother closure. I wanted this stuff to fit, and elastic gathers really make thatpossible! Also, I really wanted everyone to see how easy it is to sew withelastic thread, and how it can be employed to make very cool looking, greatfitting garments without a lot of work.

Your rows of elasticized stitching look so even andperfect!!!

Erin: Thanks - I am really proud of how that dress came together.  Next up for me:  the townbag.  First I need to find the rightpiece of leather and then work up the courage to actually sew with it.  I think that if my success with these otherprojects is any indication, it’ll be a breeze.

Heather:  Looking forward toseeing it! And if you can’t find leather, try using a really heavy velvet forthe town bag. Really unexpected, but really amazing.

Erin:  That’s a great idea – I can just see it in asoft pastel color.  Once again, you’vegot my mind spinning.

Thanks so much, Heather.

. . . . .

OK - that was so much fun.  Heather and the nice folks at STC Craft are giving away a copy of Weekend Sewing to one lucky reader.  Comment on this post before 12:00 noon EST, Wednesday, March 18th for a chance.  Also, don't forget about the design challenge Heather is having on her blog.

Now I am going to clean up my mess and then take a nap.  Happy St. Patrick's Day!

Just popping in to say hi.  I made a patchwork camera strap as a birthday gift for a friend.  This is the fourth or fifth one I have made in the last few weeks.  I really like playing with color and pattern and forgot how satisfying it is to have a quick and fun project.  I am thinking about sewing up about a dozen more and selling them.  There.  I said it.  I am seriously considering opening a shop.  I'll keep you posted on the details.

I've also been busy getting ready for tomorrow's guest.  As of this morning I have five finished projects from Weekend Sewing to share with you and Heather Ross tomorrow.  If all goes as planned, there will be at least one more item, maybe two.  I could go on and on about how much I like this book.  I'll save my gushing until tomorrow, though.

Happy Monday, friends. See you here tomorrow.

I am so off my game.  I normally post in the morning.  I like posting in the morning - it just sets my day up in the right way.  And while I could write this all up and have it published tomorrow morning, it just doesn't seem right.  I guess this is a night posting week.

So hello.  This is me, earlier today, after I got off my duff and actually finished something.  It was some weekend sewing from, um, a couple of weekends ago.  I got my copy of Heather Ross's new book in the mail right after it came out and this was the project that jumped off the pages for me.  It's a very good book.  There are quite a few garments (really, garments...for me!) that I want to make.    This one, the summer blouse was first.  I had the pattern traced and fabric cut almost immediately.  I sewed it up pretty dang fast, too.  Completely doable in a weekend, if not a day.  It's those finishing details:  slip stitch, sleeve hems and button that always get me.  So today, I pulled it out of the laundry basket that houses unfinished projects and got it done.  And then I wore it.  Out in public (it was 79 degrees here today!) and I still have it on.  I'll call that a success.

I'd love to dish all the details - the sizing, the fabrics, the vintage button and the minor modifications - but you will have to wait.  I know it's totally a tease and completely unfair, but I think you'll like my reasoning.  You see, next week, there will be a guest appearance on the blog.  Yes - the first one ever.  And she's a famous, fabric-designing, book-writing, creative seamstress, illustrator and all-around great writer.  Can you guess who?  I gave it away, didn't I?  Yes, you guessed it:  Heather Ross! 

So, next Tuesday, March 17th is the date.  I'll be here, with Heather, dishing about some other projects from her book.  To entice you further, there is a giveaway planned.  Yay!  Until then, you can find Heather at the other stops on her blog tour.  Click here for the dates and details.  You can also visit Heather's blog, if you haven't already.  Not only does she spin good stories, she has a little design challenge going on.  Fun stuff, if you ask me.

Wow.  I wrote this in record time.  Maybe blogging at night isn't such a bad idea after all!  See you all later.

It's Pioneer Day for the third grade tomorrow.  Think Little House on the Prairie, the Virginia reel and butter churning.  Add in costumes, for kids AND parent volunteers, and you get a pretty good idea of what is going on.

I made three skirts, four bonnets and an apron this weekend.  For the bonnets, I used Simplicity 3723 only because I didn't have time to order this pattern (click on shop and find bonnet pattern) from Amy.  They came together pretty easily although I did tweak the pattern a bit.  The skirts are just two lengths of fabric sewn up the sides, hemmed and with a casing for elastic at the waist.  Kate doesn't need an outfit for school, but I couldn't leave her out of the fun.  She and Jane are both reading Little House in the Big Woods and I knew she would want her own bonnet.  For her skirt, I put in a very large hem.  That way, in two years, I can just take the hem out and redo it and she will be ready to go.

I could just pinch her, she's so cute.